IML in lids, no label damage.

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I know that good results meets waterbased varnishes from siegwerk. Rgds, P.

Do You know which varnish use a printing office to iml? We use very long time valspar uv 2779 and everything is good but with one label I have problem.

Kind regards
Łukasz Tomaszewski
Grafpol
Bydgoszcz, poland

If the label is moving around, the melt is probably too cold or you are injecting to slow. Increase the material heat, speed up the injection

Try both.

You can put a anything you want in a mold and the plastic will flow over it - keeping it in place. Nothing magic about the theory or practice.

Hope this helps

in my openion this specific problem is caused solely by the quality of the varnish that is what protects the paint and the film of the injection temperatures, if you want a good label you need a very good varnish. the iml its a very simple process but the most important its the label quality if you have a good label whith a good vernish and no have a curling problem all works well.i have 12 machines 8 works puting the label into the cavity and the others directely in the injection point and i dont have any problem in both cases but in the past i have the same problem as you and the solution was change the vernish and i work with 50 microns labels.
your vernish is a water base or UV?

1- You are correct film+ink+film. You might contact a reputable film supplier for additional input. Here is a possible lead: www.serigraph.com

2- You may also want to research higher temp. inks with your ink suppliers. Another possible lead: www.prismflex.com

* Let us know how you finally solve your "ink wash" dilemma.

Hello,

1-What do you mean when you say, "Sandwich ink between film layers".
A label with the printing inside the label:
flim + ink + film.
how could you do that in a 57 micra thick label?

2- "Possibility of higher temp. ink".
There are inks that can support more than 280Cº?

Thanks for your answers.

For your consideration:
Select a less viscous polymer/grade
Lower melt temperature
Lower mold temperature
Increase injection speed
Check into compatability of ink to polymer Possibility of higher temp. ink or better adhesion
Sandwich ink between film layers

If I'm understanding you correctly, the label is directly opposite the gate itself, covering the cold slug well?

If so I can see how that would be a problem, maybe the label needs to be changed so its farther away from the gate.

The most common way to stick the labels in molds is with electrostatics (I think).
I´m not asking about "label placing problems", for example, if you have to use high plastic temperatures (one strange row material) and the injection point is just in the middle of the label (a lid), you will "wash-out" the label and the inks of the label.
Could this happen or be a reason of bad quality?
How can you avoid it?

The trick in no wrinkles and proper placement is to hold the label still. The injection puddle doesn't necessarily have to be dead center on the label. Plastic flows in a 'fountain flow' manner pushing from the inside and then 'banana peeling' to the outside.

How do you support the label? VACUUM. Make a lot of the smallest holes you can that will cover as much of the label as possible. Have the holes vent into a common vacuum line. As soon as the injection phase is over, release the vacuum.

really big labels will wrinkle because of material shrinkage.

Remember to use materials that is up to the manufacturer's recommended temperatures AND keep the mold warm

Bope this helps.

BIll Tobin

First, thanks for your attention.

I know what you mean, but maybe my explanation is not the correct one.

I´ve seen some lids, where the labels (normally whites) are "washed-out". It looks as if the plastic "eats" the label around the injection point.
Maybe the platic is too hot, injected with high pressure and velocity, ... and doesn´t let the plastic flow to create the skin you´ve said before.
Another thing is that the label material could be too sensitive.

What is your opinion?

When polymer flow enters the cavity and creates a puddle ( no jetting ) then the resin will exhibit fountain flow and there is no velocity at the side wall. The molecules lay down like bulldozer track and the layer touching the steel or label creates a .005" skin immediately.

I have seen tissue paper stetched across a cavity and molded the part without tearing the paper.